Chasing leaks in the cabin

[Mike Ebert]

I have a leak driving me crazy. It comes out from behind the drawers next to the head and soaks the carpet on the floor. I have sealed the rub rail with silicone and have checked the hand rails, rode locker, and cleats. My next thought is the windows. There is a white, rubber or plastic caulking around the glass. There are spaces in the corners where it was not done well. Could the water be coming in between the glass and the window frame? It it worth trying to re-caulk? If so what do you use? Thanks for any suggestions.

[RobS]

I corrected two leaks this season on my 28TE that were both due to shody workmanship by Albin.

The cabin hatch opening was cut slightly oversized at one corner radius thus leaving an inadequate contact area for the sealant adhesive. I removed the hatch and reset it on a gasket material I obtained directly from the hatch manufactuere, Bomar. Leaked solved.

One of my opening ports had the opening cut too tight which did not leave adequate space for the sealant. Beckson recommends a 1/8" gap around the port flange for the sealant to be applied. At one point the fiberglass cutout at the cabin wall was contacting the plastic port flange (see picture), hence zero sealant could be applied. I filed out the opening until I had a uniform 1/8" plus opening and was then able to apply a continuous bead around the plastic port flange. Leak solved.

Beckson recommends 100% silicone sealant as some sealants can attack thermoplastics. Not sure if your ports are plastic or SS.

Here is a good article on what type of sealant to use for different applications.

A very useful tool in tracing a leak is a quality moisture meter. I have a property damage claims adjusting business and use this regularly. Here is the one I have, it works great

http://www.extech.com/instruments/produ ... prodid=632

[Mike Ebert]

Thanks Rob, good references. Any opinion as to whether or not water could leak through the windsheild frames?

[sharffj]

Would recommend removing rub rail and scrapping off caulk under rub rail. Then recaulk the seam of the foredeck and hull with 4200 and also caulk every screw with 4200. Then liberally spread 4200 under the rub rail and reattach the rub rail making sure every screw is caulked. The 31 TE are known to leak under the rub rails which can end up anywhere in the cabin. Just putting silicone over the rub rail will not do the trick. There are a number of earlier posts on this subject.
Jeff S

[RicM]

Another common source of water in the cabin is the bead around the deck house. The whole roof and windows assembly is sealed to the top deck with silicone. When it rains all the runoff from the roof hits that bead and if there is the slightest imperfection it travels down through many channels and spaces and can turn up in the cabin far from the original leak. If the water shows up after a snotty run in rough seas, I would suspect the rubrail area described above. If it happens during an overhead rain storm sitting at the dock, check the cabin bead.

[RobS]

Thanks Rob, good references. Any opinion as to whether or not water could leak through the windsheild frames?

As I have a 28, not a 31, I can't visual your equipment, methods of fastening, etc. but certainly anything is possible. As you know, water leaks can be a major PITA!

[sparty12]

I have a leaky hatch cover on my Albin 28---Bought a new hatch but can't dislodge the frame from the opening--afraid Albin might have used 5200 and don't want to crachk the gel coat---any ideaa how to dislodge the frame would be appreciated. Tom Harken--Ft Myers Beach

[RobS]

I was suprised to find that when I removed the screws just how tightly adhered the aluminum frame was to the fiberglass. The chisel scraper worked perfectly. Just work your way around the perimeter tapping it under the frame with a hammer. It's much thicker and stiffer than a putty knife and the chisel end not only cut through the adhesive but the angle acted as a wedge and lifted the aluminum frame from the fiberglass. Cutting and lifting all in one. No damage to the aluminum or the fiberglass. The chisel scraper I have is angled (offset) which worked out real nice.

[RicM]

I am dealing with a similar issue on my new boat. Another forum I posted on mentioned using a piece of "piano wire" to cut the adhesive goo if you can work a piece between the frame and the glass. The black adhesive is EXTREMELY sticky. Before you go tearing off the frames (if they are that well stuck down) or the hatch frame you might want to spend some time with a partner and a hose and see if you can determine EXACTLY where the water is getting in. Often where the water is finding it's way into the interior is completely unrelated to what's immediately above it, and not "logical" at all. If the hose is not productive try a flashlight at night and go all over the forward section of the boat. I thought I had a leaky window on my 28 and spent a lot of time and energy trying to find and fix it as the water was appearing under the window on the port side on the chart table. The leak was actually in the silicone seal between the pilot house and the deck 4 feet forward, traveling down the channel between the window and the dash panel on the port side and emerging under the port side window.

[jcollins]

Another forum I posted on . . .

What!!??? There are other forums out there?